The anchor for our sumptuous spread is a glazed bone-in ham. It's basted with a spicy-sweet blend of honey, fresh horseradish, and allspice, which helps burnish and crisp the skin. Horseradish cream amplifies the flavors in the glaze.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees with rack in lower third. Rinse and dry ham and wrap first in parchment, then in foil, making sure thicker rind faces up. Place on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan and bake 1 1/2 hours.
Meanwhile, stir together 1/3 cup horseradish, honey, allspice, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper in a small bowl and set aside.
Remove ham from oven and unwrap. When cool enough to handle, peel rind from ham with a paring knife, trimming fat all over to about 1/2 inch. (It doesn't need to be perfectly even; the bottom will have less fat and more skin.) Pat dry. With the tip of the knife, score the skin with 1/4-inch-deep parallel lines, 1 to 2 inches apart. Then score skin in the opposite direction to create a diamond pattern. Return to oven and bake 30 minutes. Baste with honey-horseradish mixture and continue to bake, basting every 30 minutes, until a thermometer inserted into thickest part of flesh near (but not touching) bone registers 145 degrees, about 2 hours more. If necessary, add water to pan, about 1/4 cup at a time, to prevent pan from scorching, and tent with foil if ham begins to blacken.
Meanwhile, stir together creme fraiche, remaining 1/3 cup horseradish, thyme, and shallot. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Transfer ham to a serving platter and let rest at least 20 minutes. Serve with horseradish cream.