Savory Buttermilk Biscuits

Preheat oven to 450 degrees with racks set in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, and baking soda. Transfer half of the dry ingredients to the bowl of a food processor. Add butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs, with some larger pieces still remaining. Return this mixture back to the bowl with the rest of the dry ingredients. Add herbs, if using, and stir to combine.

Make a well in the center and gradually add buttermilk, stirring with a fork or wooden spoon until large clumps form; do not allow a dough to form in the bowl. Turn mixture out onto a lightly floured work surface, and using lightly floured hands, knead two or three times just until a dough forms.

Pat dough into an 8-by-8-inch square. Using a sharp knife, cut 2-inch square biscuits, or use a 2-inch round cutter, and transfer to prepared baking sheet, spacing 2 inches apart. Brush tops with buttermilk. Transfer to oven and bake until golden brown, about 12 minutes.