1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. In the bowl of a food processor, pulse flour, salt, and baking powder to combine. Add shortening, and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. With the machine running, gradually add between 1/2 and 3/4 cup ice water until dough comes together, about 1 minute.

2. Transfer dough to a very lightly floured work surface. Shape dough into a smooth rectangle, about 4 by 6 inches. Roll out dough to an 8-by-10-inch sheet, 1/4 inch thick. Cut dough lengthwise into 1/8-inch-wide strips.

3. Using your hands, gently roll each strip back and forth into 16-inch-long sticks. For a twisted version, grab each end of the dough, strip with your fingers and carefully stretch and twist the strip in opposite directions. Arrange the sticks on 2 baking sheets, side by side but not touching. If salting, brush each stick lightly with olive oil, and sprinkle with sea salt. Press ends onto baking sheet to keep sticks straight while they bake. Bake until firm and cooked through, 14 to 18 minutes. Transfer sticks to a wire rack to cool.