Gala Goose

Remove giblets and neck from cavity, pull off any loose fat, and cut off first two wing joints, if still attached; reserve all. Wash goose, pat dry, tie legs together, prick skin all over, season with salt and pepper, and set aside.

Put loose fat in a large saute pan over medium-high heat and render about 3 tablespoons of liquid fat. Remove and discard remaining fat (or save for another use). Add giblets, wing pieces, neck, and chopped vegetables to pan. Saute until vegetables are browned, 7 to 8 minutes, turning frequently. Sprinkle on flour, adjust heat to medium, and continue cooking until flour is lightly browned, 6 to 7 minutes, stirring often.

Pour chicken stock and white wine into a French oven large enough to hold the goose, and bring to a boil. Place goose breast side down on a rack covered with parchment paper and lower into stock. Add browned giblets and vegetables, parsley, apple peelings, cloves, bay leaf, and thyme. Pour in enough water to almost fill the pot, and bring to a simmer. Whisk 1 cup of the simmering liquid into the saute pan used in step two and deglaze pan. Scrape the thickened liquid back into the roasting pan. Cover pan and cook very gently, regulating heat if necessary, to keep it just simmering.

After an hour, turn goose over, being careful not to break the skin. (Wearing rubber gloves is helpful when doing this.) Poach goose for about one more hour, or until meat is tender when pierced with a fork. Turn off heat, and finish immediately, later in the day or the next day. Recipe may be done ahead to this point. To finish later or the next day, let cool briefly uncovered, then cover pan and set in refrigerator. When ready to resume preparation, remove layer of congealed fat from liquid. Lift out goose, and bring liquid to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to a simmer, then reheat goose in stock for about 10 minutes while preheating oven. Proceed with recipe.

To finish immediately, heat oven to 450 degrees. Remove goose from liquid, drain, and place on a rack breast side up in a shallow roasting pan. Coat goose with 3 tablespoons reserved goose fat. Roast until skin is brown and crispy, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to stand for 15 to 20 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile, skim grease from poaching liquid and strain liquid to remove pieces of goose, vegetables, and seasonings. Discard pieces of goose, seasonings, and parchment paper. Puree vegetables in an electric blender or food processor, adding a little of the strained liquid if necessary. Add vegetables back to pan along with half of the strained liquid, about 6 cups. Boil quickly to reduce liquid by about half.

Add porcini and their strained soaking liquid, cherries, Armagnac, and red-currant jelly. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper, and keep warm until needed.