Chef Chris Bianco likes earthy royal trumpet mushrooms to serve alongside his homemade Pizzas, but you can use any variety.
Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Spread mushrooms on a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with pancetta, bay leaves, garlic, red-pepper flakes, and rosemary. Drizzle with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Roast, rotating sheet halfway through, until golden brown around edges, about 20 minutes.
Spoon off excess fat. Add wine and stir. Roast until wine has almost evaporated, about 5 minutes more.
Toss with parsley and zest. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.