Ketchup made at home bursts with flavor. This version, spiked with hot chile and citrus, elevates familiar french fries to new heights.
Puree diced tomatoes and juice, onion, garlic, and sugar in a food processor. Transfer tomato mixture to a large heavy-bottomed stockpot. Add vinegar, 1 cup water, the dry mustard, nutmeg, allspice, chili powder, orange zest, orange juice, espresso, bay leaf, and habanero chile.
Bring mixture to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat; simmer, stirring occasionally until thickened, about 50 minutes.
Remove chile. Puree half or whole chile (depending on desired heat) with 1 cup ketchup in the food processor. Return ketchup to pot; stir until well blended. Season with salt and pepper. Let cool completely.
Ketchup can be refrigerated in an airtight container, up to 2 weeks.