Noodles with Greens and Gravy

If using fresh noodles, rinse under warm running water. If using dried rice noodles, soak in warm water for 15 minutes to soften, then drain and set aside.

Heat a large wok over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil, swirling to coat wok. When very hot, toss in the noodles, and stir-fry gently for about 2 minutes, pressing them against the hot pan. Turn out onto a plate.

Wipe out wok, then place back over high heat. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and when hot, toss in garlic. Stir-fry briefly until garlic begins to turn golden, about 20 seconds, then add pork slices and a generous pinch of sugar. Stir-fry until meat has changed color, about 1 minute. Toss in greens, and stir-fry, pressing vegetables against hot sides of wok, until they turn bright green, about 1 1/2 minutes or more (depending on the size of your wok).

Add soybean paste, fish sauce, soy sauce, vinegar, and remaining scant teaspoon sugar; stir-fry to mix. Add broth or water and cornstarch mixture. Stir, and bring to a boil. Cover, and cook until liquid has thickened slightly and greens are tender, about 1 minute.

Use a spatula or a ladle to distribute meat, greens, and gravy over noodles. Grind pepper over generously, and serve hot with chile-vinegar sauce.