Bright and Crunchy Salmon

Preheat oven to 325°F. Cut 1/2 orange and 1/2 lime into thin slices and put in a 9-inch square baking dish, a small rimmed baking sheet, or a heatproof skillet. Place salmon on top and sprinkle with salt and chiles. Pour all but 2 tablespoons of reserved shallot oil over salmon. Bake until salmon is opaque throughout, about 25 minutes. Remove from oil and, once cool enough to touch, break into bite-size pieces.

Use a mandoline to thinly slice watermelon radish; set in a bowl of ice water until slices are extra-crunchy. Slice cucumbers and put in a large bowl.

Into a small bowl or measuring cup, juice remaining 1/2 orange and 1/2 lime; add rice vinegar, fish sauce, and remaining 2 tablespoons shallot oil. Taste for seasoning.

Drain and pat dry radish; add to bowl with cucumbers. Add flaked salmon and herbs, drizzle with just a few tablespoons of dressing (being careful not to overdress), and toss. Serve the rest of dressing on the side to preserve crunchiness of ingredients. Put on serving plates or a platter and top with frizzled shallots, peanuts, and rice cereal.