Guntur-Chile Chicken

Remove chicken skin, then cut chicken into 2-to-3-inch pieces with a cleaver or a heavy knife (you can ask your butcher to do this). In a large bowl, stir together 1 1/2 teaspoons garlic, 1 1/2 teaspoons ginger, 1 teaspoon salt, ground chiles, turmeric, and yogurt. Add chicken; rub mixture all over it to coat. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour.

Make masala: Combine coriander, cumin, and fenugreek seeds in a small, heavy skillet (such as cast iron) over medium heat. Cook, swirling, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Add coconut to skillet; cook over low heat, stirring, until golden and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer to bowl with spices. Add 1/2 teaspoon oil to skillet. Add chiles, increase heat to medium, and cook until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Transfer to bowl; let cool completely, about 15 minutes. Transfer mixture to a spice grinder or mortar and pestle with 4 cloves, whole cardamom pod, and 1 cinnamon piece. Grind to a fine powder.

Heat remaining 1/4 cup oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over high until shimmering. Reduce heat to medium; add remaining 2 cloves and cinnamon piece and crushed cardamom pod. Add onions and cook, stirring, until beginning to brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Add remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons garlic and 1 1/2 teaspoons ginger, and green chiles; cook 2 minutes more. Add chicken and stir well; cook until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add 1 cup of water; bring to a boil, then cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until most of liquid has evaporated, 10 to 15 minutes, checking once or twice to make sure chicken isn't sticking (if it is, add a splash of water and stir to release).

Add coriander-coconut masala, black pepper, and 1 teaspoon salt to Dutch oven; stir well. Continue to cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally and scraping off any masala bits that stick to bottom of pan, until sauce thickens and chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes more. Drizzle with ghee, sprinkle with curry leaves, and cook 1 minute more. Cover and remove from heat; let stand 5 minutes. Serve hot, with steamed rice or flatbread.