Eggplant Roti Pachchadi

Combine coriander, cumin, and fenugreek seeds in a small, heavy skillet (such as cast iron) over medium heat. Cook, swirling, until fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool completely, then crush in a large mortar and pestle (or grind in a spice grinder).

Combine 2 cups cold water with 1 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Wash eggplant, cut off stem, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces; you should have about 2 1/2 cups. Add to bowl (this prevents discoloration and mellows the inherent bitterness).

Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large straight-sided skillet over high until very hot. Drain eggplant and pat dry; add to skillet, reduce heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until turning translucent at edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Add onion and garlic; stir for a few seconds, then stir in tomatoes, green chiles, turmeric, 1 teaspoon salt, and a splash of water.

Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until eggplant is soft, 8 to 10 minutes, adding more water if eggplant is sticking. Remove from heat; let cool completely. Transfer mixture to mortar and pestle with tamarind paste, cilantro, sugar, and ground toasted spices; pound coarsely to combine. (Or pulse in a food processor a few times.)

Heat remaining 1 teaspoon oil in a small, heavy skillet (such as cast iron) over high until very hot. Add mustard seeds. When they sputter, add dried red chiles and curry leaves; cook, swirling, a few seconds. Pour over chutney.