Dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine yeast, 1/4 cup warm water (110 degrees) and pinch of sugar. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

Attach bowl to mixer fitted with dough-hook attachment. Mix on low speed, adding butter, milk, salt, remaining 3 tablespoons sugar, and eggs. Slowly add flour and mix on low until mixture just comes together. Increase speed to medium-high; beat until dough is soft and elastic, 5 minutes.

Lightly brush a large bowl with butter. Place dough in bowl; cover with plastic wrap. Place in a warm, draft-free place and let rise until dough doubles in size, about 2 hours (or refrigerate overnight; bring to room temperature before baking).

Filling: Combine butter, garlic, herbs and salt in small bowl. Lightly coat two standard 5-by-9-inch loaf pans with butter. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Roll into a 12-by-16-inch rectangle. Using an offset spatula, spread herb-butter mixture evenly over dough. Using a pizza wheel or a sharp knife, cut dough lengthwise into 3 equal strips. Cut dough crosswise into 4 equal sections. (You will have twelve 4-inch squares.) Fold each square in half, and place 6 in each pan, folded-sides down. (Dough will be soft.) Cover pans with plastic wrap and let rise until dough does not spring back when pressed with a finger, 25 to 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake loaves until golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes before turning out of pans; serve. Bread can be stored, wrapped in parchment-lined foil, at room temperature up to 1 day.