Fried Fish

Heat oil in a large, heavy pot (preferably cast iron) to 365 degrees. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cornstarch, 1 teaspoon salt, and baking powder. Gently whisk in club soda; do not overmix (there may be some lumps). Let stand 15 minutes.

Pat fish very dry; season with salt and pepper. Working with a few pieces at a time, dip fish in batter, then transfer directly to hot oil with tongs. Cook until crisp and golden brown all over, about 3 minutes. (Be sure to keep oil temperature between 345 degrees and 365 degrees.) Transfer to paper towels to drain. Serve fish hot on rolls, with tomatoes, pickles, chips, and tartar sauce, and lemon wedges alongside.