Sicilians makegood use of the many citrus groves ontheir island; a traditional breakfast is ascoop of lemon gelato served on brioche. Of course, the combination isalso suitable for dessert.
In a small saucepan, cook lemon juice over medium-low heat until reduced by three-quarters, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat; let cool completely.
In a medium heavy-bottom saucepan, bring milk and lemon zest just to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat; cover, and steep 30 minutes.
In a mixing bowl, beat yolks and sugar on medium-high speed until very thick and pale, about 5 minutes.
Prepare an ice bath; set aside. Return milk mixture to a simmer; whisk half into egg-yolk mixture. Return mixture to saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until thick enough to coat back of the spoon.
Remove from heat; immediately stir in cream. Pass mixture through a fine sieve into a medium bowl set in the ice bath; let stand, stirring frequently, until chilled. Stir in reduced lemon juice.
Freeze mixture in an ice-cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Store in an airtight container in the freezer until ready to serve, up to 1 week.
This tangy gelato is delicious on its own, but we like to cradle scoops in store-bought brioche buns. You can also make this gelato with regular lemons; look for ones with thin skins.