Traditional Meyer Lemon Gelato

In a small saucepan, cook lemon juice over medium-low heat until reduced by three-quarters, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat; let cool completely.

In a medium heavy-bottom saucepan, bring milk and lemon zest just to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat; cover, and steep 30 minutes.

In a mixing bowl, beat yolks and sugar on medium-high speed until very thick and pale, about 5 minutes.

Prepare an ice bath; set aside. Return milk mixture to a simmer; whisk half into egg-yolk mixture. Return mixture to saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until thick enough to coat back of the spoon.

Remove from heat; immediately stir in cream. Pass mixture through a fine sieve into a medium bowl set in the ice bath; let stand, stirring frequently, until chilled. Stir in reduced lemon juice.

Freeze mixture in an ice-cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Store in an airtight container in the freezer until ready to serve, up to 1 week.