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Bias Toward the Pretty
In sewing, as in many areas of life, it helps to have a few reliable shortcuts. Count bias tape among them. Made from strips of folded fabric, bias tape is a multitasking trim that's utilitarian yet fashionable. It binds raw edges quickly and, unlike strictly decorative materials such as ribbon or flat trim, travels around curves with ease, never puckering. Whether you want to redo a hem, add a flourish to everyday items such as bath towels, or make functional details such as loops on pot holders and ties on seat cushions, bias tape can make your life easier.
Store-bought bias tape is widely available, but only in a small selection of solid colors. Although plain hues work well with patterns, there's no need to limit yourself. You can easily create your own bias tape in bright prints from almost any woven fabric. Quilting-supply shops offer an exceptional variety, but you also can find inspiration in your sewing stash, a floral-patterned pillowcase, or vintage clothing. Whether you seek a design that's modern or classic, playful or elegant, making your own bias tape ensures your project turns out to be exactly what you want.
Bias-Tape Basics
Bias-tape makers come in a variety of sizes, creating strips of fabric 1/4 inch to 2 inches in width. Use a medium-weight woven fabric, such as quilting cotton or summer linens. These instructions are for making single-fold tape.
1. Start with 1 yard of fabric. With dressmakers' chalk and a clear quilting ruler, mark strips at 45-degree angles, one beside the next. (To determine the width of the strips, see instructions with bias-tape maker.) Cut out strips.
2.To create longer lengths of bias tape for larger projects, join strips end to end as follows: Place two strips, right sides facing and diagonal ends aligned, at a 90-degree angle. Stitch in place with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, backstitching to secure. Press open with an iron. Snip corners.
3. Feed one end of fabric into bias-tape maker, pulling 1 to 2 inches of fabric through the other side. Pin bias tape to ironing board to hold it in place. Press with iron. Continue to pull strip through bias-tape maker, ironing as you go.
Types of Bias Tape
A bias-tape maker creates single-fold bias tape, top, that works on almost any project requiring trim. Store-bought double-fold bias tape, above, is folded lengthwise a second time; its crisp crease makes quick work of large projects.
One-Step Binding
To bind raw edges or embellish seams, slip bias tape over the edge of the project. Pin to secure. Stitch 1/8 inch in from tape's edge, making sure needle passes through underside of tape.
Fold-Over Finish
To prevent fraying at edges, cut bias tape 1/2 inch longer than required. Stop stitching about 1 inch before the tape's end. Open the bias tape like a book; fold end over the edge of the project's fabric. Close bias tape, and stitch in place.
Overlap Finish
To prevent fraying on continuous bindings, cut bias tape 1 inch longer than required. Stop stitching about 1 inch before completing project. Open the bias tape like a book; fold under 1/2 inch at end. Close bias tape, and stitch in place.
Tote How-To
1. Using our tote template, cut out two handles, two bag pieces, one small pocket, and one large pocket from 1 yard of medium-weight cotton canvas.
2. Using 6 yards of store-bought double-fold bias tape, bind both edges of each handle and edges of large and small pockets and both bag pieces.
3. Press under 1/2 inch of both ends of each handle and pin to each bag piece, folded edge of handle facing the right side of the fabric, 4 1/2 inches from the top edge and 4 inches in from sides of bag. (The handle will twist, as shown below.) Stitch handles to bag using two horizontal stitches, 1/8 and 1/2 inch from folded edge; backstitch for reinforcement.
4. Stack a small pocket on top of a large one, side edges aligned; pin both to right side of one bag piece. Starting at bag's bottom and stitching through all layers, sew up center front of pockets; backstitch to reinforce.
5. Stack pieces, wrong sides facing and edges aligned. Bind front of bag to back with bias tape, beginning and ending with a fold-over finish.
For the Little Ones
Why settle for white? Here, bibs form the backdrop to more than just baby-food stains, and eye-catching laces make learning to tie one's shoes enticing.
For the Bibs
1. Using our bib template, cut bib from white cotton fabric. You will need 2 yards of single-fold bias tape in any width for the bib's binding and ties (plus extra for stripes, monograms, or other embellishments).
2. For stripes, stitch tape to bib 1/8 inch from tape's upper and lower edges. For monogram, stitch pieces of tape to bib, folding under the ends to prevent fraying.
3. Stitch bias tape around neckline, and trim excess.
4. Cut tape to 50 inches. Measure 11 1/2 inches from end of bias tape, leaving it loose (this will be a tie). Attach tape at one outer edge of the neckline, and stitch around bib, stopping at the opposite edge of the neckline. Measure 11 1/2 inches for second tie, and snip off excess.
5. Stitch entire length of tie, ending with a fold-over finish.
For the Shoelaces
1. Make or buy single-fold cotton bias tape that is 1/2 inch wide; cut two strips that are the same length as the shoe's original laces.
2. Fold each lace in half lengthwise, and press with iron.
3. Trim ends at an angle.
4. Stitch along the entire length of the lace, about 1/8 inch from edge.
Entertaining Extras
This summery runner is 86 inches long; you can add or subtract leaves, depending on the length of your table. Handmade napkins can coordinate with either linens or tableware.
For the Runner:
1. Using our leaf template, cut 27 leaves from linen (we used celadon, mint, and lemon).
2. Use a 1/2-inch-wide strip of store-bought single-fold bias tape and the one-step binding method to create a border along one side of each leaf, from tip to tip. There is no need to finish the tape's ends.
3. Bind the opposite side of each leaf with a separate length of bias tape, covering raw edges at tips with an overlap finish.
4. Arrange leaves in desired pattern; pin, and hand-stitch together.
For the Napkins
1. Cut out a 13-inch square linen napkin. With scissors, round edges.
2. Beginning on a straight side, bind napkin with 1/2-inch-wide handmade single-fold bias tape (we used striped fabric). Complete with an overlap finish.
Beautify the Bath
A patterned trim can tie together almost any assortment of colored towels.
For the Hand Towel
1. Cut off towel's hems.
2. Using a 2-inch bias-tape maker, create two strips of fabric that span the width of the towel, allowing 1/2 inch on each end for finishing.
3. Use the one-step binding method to attach trim, beginning and ending with a fold-over finish. Topstitch ends closed 1/8 inch from folded edge.
For the Bath Towel
1. Using scissors or shears, cut two 8-inch-wide strips of fabric on the bias that span the width of the towel, allowing 1/2 inch on each end for finishing.
2. Fold raw edges of fabric so they meet in the center back, and press with an iron to create single-fold bias tape. Fold in half lengthwise again, and press.
3. Continue as with hand towel.
Mood Lighting
The handmade bias tape on this simple, no-sew project can complement curtains, pillows, or any other fabric in the room.
1. Measure the circumference of the top and the bottom of a lampshade. Cut two corresponding strips of single-fold bias tape (any width), allowing 1 inch for finishing.
2. Using fabric glue, attach bias tape to shade, beginning and ending at the shade's seam. Tuck last 1/2 inch of bias tape under itself, and affix to shade.
First Published: June 2007