did you know?

Beginning in the 1970s through the 1980s, many red maples began to decline for no apparent reason. It was determined that the graft on many of the trees became incompatible upon maturity. Red maples are now grown on their own roots, and the general decline has ceased.

general maintenance:

Prune damaged and weak stems or branches, keeping crown open.

pests/diseases:

Leaf hoppers and borers may occur, but rarely cause extensive damage.

how to sow/plant:

Choose a sunny site with well-drained soil, making sure there is enough room for the tree to reach its mature height and spread. In early spring, dig a hole twice as wide as container or root ball. Set plant at same depth or slightly higher than it was in pot, or if balled, level soil with top of root ball. Fill hole around plant with soil and mound to form a 2-inch-high ridge around perimeter of hole to act as a catchbasin. If plant is balled in synthetic fabric, remove carefully before backfilling. Cotton or all-natural burlap may be left around root ball and then peeled back once plant is set in hole. Water thoroughly, filling the basin and allowing water to settle several times. Spread 2-inch-layer of mulch around plant.

water and fertilize:

Maintain uniform soil moisture for the first season. Be sure the soil is moist before the ground freezes in fall. Feed with an all-purpose fertilizer each spring before growth begins, following label directions. Once tree is established, usually by the third year, water only in times of drought.

garden hint:

A red maple is easy to identify by its red flowers, emerging red leaves, red petioles (leaf stems), and red fall foliage color.

features:

• Deciduous
• Fall Foliage
• Native

garden uses:

other uses: