Since our first, unforgettable sips of an earthy Rioja, we have come to associate Spain with wines of great swagger and spice: those inky reds and delectable, edgy sherries, fizzy Cava, and, increasingly, one truly amazing white wine, Albarino.

Made principally from grapes of the same name, Albarino (al-ba-REEN-yo) has exploded into prominence only in the past 15 years or so -- barely a blink of the eye in European winemaking history. What happened? Since its origins, Albarino had been a country-style wine, fermented outside at warm, ambient temperatures and allowed to oxidize, turning it raisiny. The wine lost much of its vitality as it fermented and settled. Albarino maintained a loyal local following, and exports were rare.

In the late 1980s, production of Albarino was overhauled after the advent of a new technology -- refrigerated stainless steel fermentation tanks that were installed throughout much of Spain's winemaking country. Refrigeration let winemakers limit oxidation and preserve the bright, fresh fruit flavors of their cherished grape.

The new-style Albarino has become popular not only in Galicia, where it is produced, but also throughout the world because it balances a crisp, lip-smacking acidity with lush, exotic floral and fruit nuances. It is a fantastic aperitif on its owntry to imagine a wine that is as minerally and racy as Sancerre or Pinot Grigio and as floral as Riesling or Viognier. But Albarino is especially delicious with food.

Galicia, bordered by the Atlantic, just above Portugal, is swept by the winds and salt spray of the ocean. Not coincidentally, the Albarino that is produced there is a perfect partner for the bounty of sea creatures served in local restaurants, especially scallops, lobsters, mussels, octopuses, and all sorts of finfish, which are frequently grilled or cooked down into rich stews. Albarino is also a fine quencher for garlicky dishes and spicy sausages.