Rubs vs. Sauces
Barbecue-rib masters, whether presiding over emporiums in Memphis or holding court in backyards, engage in the great debate: rubs versus sauces. But both play crucial, interdependent roles in barbecuing a better rib.

Rubs are the foundation on which flavors are built. Patted onto ribs, these magic mixes layer a holy trinity: a jolt of heat, a dose of sweetness, and a whisper of vegetal overtones. After being massaged with a rub and left to their own devices in the refrigerator for a couple of hours or, preferably, overnight, uncooked ribs undergo something akin to alchemy. The rub penetrates the meat, forever changing its flavor and texture.

Each sauce hound has what amounts to his own private label. But no matter how secret the ingredients, certain elements always insinuate themselves, such as the musky heat of pepper, the bite of vinegar, and the inimitable scratch of bourbon. Lazily mopped on toward the end of cooking, the right sauce turns ribs a deep, sleek mahogany and lends the bright smack of acidic flavors as a counterpoint to the complex nature of a rub.

Perhaps the best rib recipe is unfailingly democratic, pulling inspiration from points across America's barbecue belt. Wherever your predilection or allegiance lies, one thing's for certain: Barbecuing ribs is one of cooking's most satisfying, and messy, acts. Have plenty of family, and napkins, close by to sop up all the pleasure.

Text by David Leite, the creator of the James Beard Award-winning website leitesculinaria.com