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Photographing the Tree
![]() It's too busy, it's too dark, it's too yellow, it won't twinkle. Yes, you can capture this magic on film. It took some emergency tree surgery, but you finally managed to get the thing through the door, wrestled it upright, kept turning it until you found its best angle, disentangled the strings of lights, and spent hours in a pleasant trance draping tinsel, looping beads, and hanging every beloved ornament just so. When it was finished, everyone agreed -- as usual -- that it was the most beautiful tree ever. And, as usual, the pictures didn't do it justice. Even professional photographers agree that shooting a Christmas tree is tricky. "There are several problems happening at once," says photographer Victor Schrager. "If you were simply to photograph the tree by the light of its own bulbs, all you would get are little points of light and a black tree and a black room. But use the flash, and any sense of sparkle and glow gets lost. So how do you do it all at once?" There's no one sure method, but here are some guidelines. Start with the Right Film "Try the 400 ASA," says photographer William Abranowicz. "If you think your prints are just a little too grainy -- which they shouldn't be, unless you're going to blow up prints to poster size -- go to a slower film, like a 200 or 100 ASA, next time." Avoid Taking Indoor and Outdoor Shots on the Same Roll If you take pictures both indoors and outdoors on one roll, let the drugstore develop it, and then, when the prints come back, choose your favorite, take the negative to a professional lab, and have a custom "color-corrected" print made. This will cost a bit more, but the print is handmade rather than machine-produced. The photo lab will know what you mean by "color correct," but it helps to bring along the drugstore print and say, "Not like this." Always ask for glossy prints -- you'll get a sharper image. Turn Off the Flash "It's perfectly acceptable to take the lampshades off your lamps," says Schrager. "Or bring other lamps into the room. It doesn't all have to be techie photo equipment -- a lightbulb is a lightbulb." Still, you'll need to spend time fussing with lights -- turning them on and off, moving them around -- so it's probably not a good idea to schedule your tree portrait for Christmas Eve or morning. Keep these light sources behind your camera, and make sure they don't cast noticeable shadows. To avoid the trial and error of shifting lamps, you might want to invest $12 or so in a clip-on painter's lamp from the hardware store. Get one with a twelve-inch rather than a six-inch reflector ("the larger the light source, the more diffuse the light," says Abranowicz), put in a 150-watt floodlight bulb, and bounce the light off a wall at about the same height as your camera. If the wall isn't white, tape up a large sheet of white paper, and aim the light at that. If there's a lamp showing in the picture -- say, on a table next to the tree -- and you want to keep it there, remove the bulb and put in a fifteen-watt replacement. You'll get the glowing effect you want without throwing off your exposure or creating a blinding white spot. If the tree lights are coming on too strong, photographer Sang An suggests putting them on a dimmer. Easy-to-use dimmer-converter boxes are available at houseware stores. Choose the Right Time of Day "When I photograph my tree,"says Schrager, "I try to do it in the afternoon when there's still some light coming in, but it's also dim enough -- as it is around 3:30 or 4 in December -- so you have a sense of the tree lights' starting to glow. It's the same effect you get standing outside late on a winter afternoon, when it's still somewhat light out, but you can see the windows of houses glowing." If you want to capture this effect with an automatic camera, you'll need to bring up the light level a bit: Experiment by turning on more lamps and taking off lampshades, or use the fill-flash setting available on many cameras. Take Time to Compose Each Shot |
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