Dyeing Fabric
White or tinted yardage and premade items work well for these projects. Look for all-natural cloth, such as cotton or linen, that is not water-resistant or permanent-press. (Wool requires a different dyeing process.) Machine-wash separately; iron as needed. Keep in mind that the color will fade with each laundering.

Tools and Materials
100 percent natural fabric
Professional textile detergent
Plastic drop cloths
Straight pins
Wide nonreactive bin
Basin or tub
Noniodized salt
Rubber gloves
Protective face mask
Fiber-reactive dyes
2 small nonreactive bowls
Nonreactive utensil
Soda ash fixer



Dyeing Fabric How-To
1. Machine-wash fabric in hot water with professional textile detergent. Machine- or air-dry.

2. Weigh fabric (the amount of dye solution you'll need to mix is based on fabric weight). If you don't have a scale, compare fabric with a T-shirt (about 5 ounces) or a pair of jeans (about 1 pound). Consult dye's label for instructions, or calculate the dye formula based on the following proportions.

For a 1/2 Pound of Fabric
1 1/2 cups noniodized salt
1 1/2 gallons warm water
1 1/2 teaspoons dye
1/6 cup (2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons) soda ash fixer

For 1 Pound of Fabric
3 cups noniodized salt
3 gallons warm water
1 tablespoon dye
1/3 cup soda ash fixer

3. Cover work surface and floor with drop cloths. Saturate fabric with water; wring it until no longer dripping. Smooth fabric. Decide how far dye will extend, and mark limit with straight pins on right and left sides of fabric. Divide area to be dyed into 5 even segments, and mark intervals with pins. (For specific folding and pinning instructions, see Project Variations, below.)

4. Position bin for dye solution near basin or tub. Dissolve salt in warm water in bin, according to formula. (Note: You'll want the liquid to reach a minimum depth of 4 inches.) Wearing gloves and mask (some dyes can be toxic), measure dye, and place it in a bowl. Add 1 or 2 teaspoons warm water, stirring with a nonreactive utensil to make a paste. Slowly add 1 cup warm water, and stir until dye dissolves completely and mixture forms a slurry. Add the slurry to bin, stirring until mixed. Measure soda ash fixer, and place it in second bowl; add about 2 cups hot water slowly, stirring until dissolved. (Avoid splashing, as fixer is caustic.)

5. Add the soda ash fixer mixture to the dye solution, mixing well for about 30 seconds. The solution will remain potent for about 1 hour and cannot be reused.

6. Place prepared fabric in dye solution, immersing it to the topmost pins; hold in place for 30 seconds. (The damp fabric will draw dye up, creating blurred gradations.) Raise fabric until solution's surface aligns with second set of pins; hold for 1 minute. Raise fabric to third set of pins; hold for 5 minutes. Repeat at remaining 2 pinned levels, holding for 5 minutes each.

7. Carefully transfer dyed fabric to basin or tub. Fill with cold running water, swishing gently to rinse. Drain. Repeat until liquid remains clear.

8. Machine-wash fabric in hot water with professional textile detergent. Machine- or air-dry.

Project Variations
Bedroom Pillowcases
If making your own, cut fabric 3 inches longer on all sides than pillow. Stack fabric for front and back pieces of 2 pillowcases, or stack store-bought cases. Pin through all 4 layers to mark shade levels. Dye as directed.

Headboard Slipcover
Cut fabric 6 inches longer on all sides than headboard. Lay rectangular fabric horizontally, and make 4 vertical accordion folds. Pin through all layers to mark shade levels, which should be parallel to short end. Fold down remaining fabric, and secure with binder clips to keep it out of solution. Dye as directed.

Tote Bag
Pin through both layers to mark shade levels. Secure handles with binder clips to keep them out of solution. Dye as directed; when using thick fabric, such as canvas, you may need to hold the fabric in dye longer at each level.

Napkins
To dye tops and bottoms, fold each napkin in half horizontally. Pin through layers to mark shade levels. Stack 2 pinned napkins, securing with binder clips at folded edges. Dye as directed.

Sofa Pillowcases
Cut fabric 3 inches longer on all sides than pillow. Fold in half to produce identical gradations at top and bottom or on both sides. For top and bottom shading, fold horizontally. For side shading, fold vertically. Pin through all layers to mark shade levels. Dye as directed.

Art Panel
Cut fabric 6 inches longer on all sides than stretcher bar. Follow sofa pillowcases how-to for top and bottom gradations. Dye as directed. Iron completed fabric. Attach it to stretcher bar using a staple gun

Art Panel How-To
1. Lay dyed fabric face down. Center the stretcher bar on top of the fabric.

2. Fold fabric over the left side of stretcher bar. Secure with 1 staple in the middle of bar. Repeat on the right side, pulling cloth taut. On the left side, staple once 3 inches to the left of middle; staple again 3 inches to the right of middle. Repeat on the right side, pulling cloth taut.

3. Continue stapling every 3 inches, alternating sides, until the left and right edges are secure.

4. Repeat on the top and bottom, starting in the middle and leaving 6 inches of fabric unstapled at both ends.

5. Working at 1 corner, tuck in unstapled fabric (as if you were wrapping a present) to create an edge flush with the adjacent, fully stapled side; pull taut, and secure with staples. Repeat at remaining corners.

6. Attach 2 eye screws on the back of the right and left sides about 1/3 from top. Insert a picture wire; hang.