Feathered lashes and whimsical clip-art wings around the eyes add dimension and flair to Martha's makeup, created by Krisofer Buckle. Complete the look with a short mod-style wig. The costume consists of a homemade cape and faux-fur collar; wear an all-black outfit underneath to create the appearance of an insectlike body.
For the Makeup:
- Apply natural-looking foundation and blush as desired. Line upper and lower eyelids with black eyeliner. Apply a layer of matte gold eye shadow from lids to brow bones; follow with a layer of rust-colored shadow above crease, around corners, and underneath eyes. Finish shadow with a layer of smoky brown on lids and around corners of eyes; blend into crease.
- Apply false eyelashes, clip art wings, and feathers as described below. Insert black contact lenses, if desired. Apply neutral-colored lipstick.
Sources: Matte eye color in Ginger, Coffee Ground, and Truffle, From Laura Mercier,lauramercier.com. Lipstick in Freckletone, by Mac, maccosmetics.com. Duo eyelash adhesive, from Sephora, sephora.com. Similar "Hellraiser" contact lenses, from 9mm, Special Effects, 9mmsfx.com. Similar wig, from Wigs and Plus, 123wigs.com.
For the Eye Details:
- Use eyelash glue to apply false eyelashes.
- For the wings, print Motha wing clip art onto white heavyweight matte paper; cut out. Gently curl outer edges of wings around a pencil or small makeup brush. Apply a thin, even line of eyelash glue to edge of 1 upper wing. let set a few seconds until tacky. Affix wing to face above the outer corner of eye, just below brow bone; the edge should be vertical, perpendicular to eyebrow. Repeat with second upper wing. Apply lower wings under eyes at outer corners, with horizontal edges following the shape of the eye.
- Embellish false eyelashes with pheasant feathers (available at crafts stores): Trim across bottom edges of feathers with small scissors to reach desired size (use 4 feathers on upper lashes, starting with largest at outer corners and decreasing in size as you move inward). Apply a few dots of eyelash glue to edge of each feather, let set until tacky, and affix to top of false lashes; let dry. Cut 2 small feather triangles; glue to the lower lashes near outer corners.
For the Faux-Fur Collar
- You will need 1 1/2 yards of 36-inch-wide faux-fur fabric. Print collar template; tape together and cut out. Trace template twice onto wrong side of fabric; cut out shapes from fabric backing.
- Pin fabric pieces together, right sides facing; sew around the edge with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, leaving a 4-inch opening on one side. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch.
- Turn fabric right side out; hand-stitch opening closed. Sew a large button onto one side of collar at neck and a loop or narrow ribbon onto the other side to make a closure.
Sources: Faux Fur, from Ny Elegant Fabrics, nyelegantfabrics.com. Silk chiffon, from Mood Designer Fabrics, moodfabrics.com. Simply Spray fabric paint in black fromspraypaint4fabric.com. Adventure waterproof map paper, 8 1/2 x 11 inches, from National Geographic, shop.nationalgeographic.com.
For the Cape
- Cut fabric: You will need a total of 8 yards of 44-inch-wide silk chiffon. Print cape A and cape B templates; tape each template together and cut out. make the longer layer: Trace each template onto wrong side of fabric, then flip each template and trace again to make a mirror image; cut out shapes. Sew pieces together as indicated in above diagram, with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Sew a 1/2-inch hem around edge. Trim templates to shorter length where indicated on templates, and repeat steps to make second, shorter layer.
- Paint fabric: Print scallop stencil onto waterproof map paper; cut out and tape together. Spread cape on covered work surface. Use stencil to paint 4 scalloped stripes onto shorter cape layer with fabric spray paint; spray paint less densely as you move away from the scallop to create a soft edge at the top of each stripe. (Test paint for desired effect on a scrap of paper or fabric.) Spray a few half-circles along the bottom edge of longer layer. Let paint dry completely.
- Finish cape: Place shorter layer on top of longer layer, both right side up; stitch together around neck. Tack layers together along vertical seams and down each side, as indicated on templates. Tack a loop of ribbon to each side of cape at neck. Drape cape over shoulders, mark button placement opposite each loop, and sew on buttons (one button will fasten on inside of cape).