Pickling was popular during World War II and was considered patriotic for its frugality. Whole pickling spices, bay leaves, white wine, and sugar give these red and golden beets a bright, sweet, relish-like flavor.
5 medium red beets and 5 golden beets, stems trimmed (2 pounds total with greens)
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 1/2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds
3/4 teaspoon dill seed
1 teaspoon whole allspice
1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
1/4 teaspoon whole cloves
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper, flakes
4 or 5 fresh bay leaves (or 6 dried)
1 1/4 cups white wine vinegar
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon coarse salt
Put red beets in a medium saucepan; cover with water. Repeat with golden beets in another medium saucepan. Cover each, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until beets are tender, about 30 minutes. Keeping beets separate, drain, and let stand until cool enough to handle. Peel beets; cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Transfer to separate nonreactive containers.
Stir together the spices in a small bowl. Sprinkle beets with the spice mixture and the bay leaves, dividing evenly.
Stir together vinegar, wine, 1 1/4 cups water, the sugar, and the salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Immediately pour brine over beets, dividing evenly. Let cool completely. Cover each container, and refrigerate 7 to 10 hours. Serve cold or at room temperature. Pickled beets can be refrigerated, covered, up to 3 weeks. Transfer to smaller containers to store, if desired.
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