The name of this caramel-like confection, from Argentina and Uruguay, loosely translates to "milk candy": In a traditional process, sugar and milk are cooked over low heat for hours, until the mixture becomes thick and golden.
In a medium saucepan, bring milk, sugar, and salt to a simmer over medium. Remove from heat and whisk in baking soda (mixture will foam). Return to a simmer and cook over low, stirring occasionally and skimming off any foam, until sauce is deep golden brown and lightly coats a spoon, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a heatproof bowl.
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