Fill a 6-quart, heavy-bottomed pot with 12 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Set a spaetzle maker or a large-holed colander over water, so that it is about 3 inches from the surface of the water; adjust water amounts accordingly. Add 1 tablespoon salt to water and return to a boil. Prepare an ice-water bath; set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and nutmeg until well combined. Whisk flours together and add to egg mixture; stir until smooth and slightly elastic, about 2 minutes. Let stand 30 minutes.
Place half of the batter in the spaetzle maker or colander; press batter through the holes so that it falls into the batter in tear-drop shaped pieces. Let spaetzle cook until they rise to the surface, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, immediately transfer spaetzle to ice-water bath. Repeat process with remaining batter.
Drain spaetzle from ice-water bath. Melt butter in a medium heavy-bottomed, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add spaetzle and cook, stirring constantly, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper; serve immediately.
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