Days to Harvest: A newly planted asparagus patch should not be harvested for its first year -- it needs this time to become established in the garden. The second year, you can harvest selectively over a two-week period. The third year, harvest over four weeks. The fourth year and beyond, you may harvest over an 8- to 10-week period, up until new shoots emerge thin and spindly.

When to Plant: Plant crowns in early-mid spring, as soon as the soil can be worked. Keep the asparagus patch free of weeds, especially for the first couple of years.

Light: Full sun.

Soil:The site should be well drained and the pH neutral (get a soil test before beginning an asparagus patch). As with most vegetables, average soil amended generously with compost will produce best results.

Watering: Water frequently as crowns get established. After a few years, supplemental water should be required only during periods of drought.

Fertilizing: Apply a balanced organic granular fertilizer in early spring each year.

Pest Problems: Slugs prey on young shoots; trap or handpick. Aphids may set in but can be washed off with a hose.

Days to Harvest: 50 to 60 days on average, up to 85 for very long types.

When to Plant: Beans are sensitive to cold and do not transplant well. Direct-sow seed outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. You can sow seed every 2 to 4 weeks for continuous harvesting.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Good topsoil enriched with organic matter is neccessary.

Watering:Keep moist for best production.

Fertilizing: Fertilize throughout the season with an organic vegetable fertilizer.

Pest Problems: Mexican bean beetles skeletonize foliage; look on the underside of the leaves for the fuzzy yellow caterpillar-like larvae and the adults, which look like yellow ladybugs. These should be handpicked and destroyed. Many bean varieties are bred to be resistant to common fungal and bacterial disease.

Days to Harvest: 49 to 66

When to Plant: For spring/summer broccoli harvests, start seeds indoors 6 to 9 weeks before last frost and place in the garden 1 to 3 weeks prior to last frost. For fall/winter harvest, sow seeds directly in the garden 10 to 12 weeks before first frost. 

Light: Full sun

Soil: Well-drained soil amended with compost.

Watering: Keep well watered. Mulch helps keep roots cool and moist during hot weather.

Fertilizing: Regular fertilizing with a liquid fertilizer at half strength is helpful, especially with broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower, which are best grown quickly.

Pest Problems: Cabbage loopers and imported cabbageworms are voracious caterpillars that can make alarmingly short work of the leaves. Their color camouflages them on the plant perfectly, so you'll notice their damage before you find them. The use of floating row covers from planting time to harvest means that the adult moths cannot access plants to lay eggs; you can also spray plants with hot pepper or garlic spray, but this must be done at the appropriate time. Check with your state's extension service to find out when the pests emerge in your area. Slugs are also fond of broccoli (part of the Brassicas family). Handpick them at night, or trap them with beer or soda in a saucer nestled into the soil overnight.

For complete growing instructions of each vegetable in the Brassicas family, please see our individual growing guides below. 

Broccoli Growing Guide
Cauliflower Growing Guide
Cabbage Growing Guide
Brussels Sprouts Growing Guide 
Kohlrabi Growing Guide 
Kale Growing Guide
Collards Growing Guide

Days to Harvest: 66 to 90.

When to Plant: Extremely frost sensitive, corn planted in soils cooler than 55 degrees (65 for super-sweet varieties) fails to germinate or has very poor germination. Direct-sow only after night temperatures are consistently in the 50s. Plant in blocks of at least 3 rows, at least 3 feet long apiece, to ensure best pollination. Hand-pollinate by gently shaking plants toward one another if you cannot devote this much space.

Light: Full sun. Bear in mind that corn's tall stature will cause it to cast shade over neighboring plants.

Soil: Well-drained, amended generously with compost a few weeks before planting.

Watering: Requires ample water especially during fruiting -- up to 2 inches per week.

Fertilizing: Corn is unique in that it grows above ground. This enables the gardener to fertilize by side dressing -- applying a band of organic granular fertilizer directly to the soil surface around the base of the plant. Apply according to rates indicated on package before fruit set.

Pest Problems: Birds and raccoons, Japanese beetles. Corn earworms can be excluded by choosing resistant varieties.

Days to Harvest: 46 to 65.

When to Plant: The seeds are best directly sown when danger of frost has passed and soil is warm. Can be started indoors, but fleshy roots must not be disturbed when transplanting.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Rich topsoil, amended with plenty of compost before planting.

Watering: Succulent fruits and large leaves require a great deal of water for best performance. Mulching reduces drought stress in hot summers.

Fertilizing: Fertilize frequently with a nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer.

Pest Problems: Cucumber beetles cause many problems. Look on underside of leaves for adults and larvae; handpick and destroy.

Days to Harvest: 55 to 73.

When to Plant: Cold-climate gardeners should chose quick-to-mature varieties and sow the seeds indoors 8 weeks before last frost. The plants cannot withstand cold soil, so seedlings should not be planted outdoors until daytime temperatures are in the 70s.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-drained; average soil should be amended with compost prior to planting.

Watering: Water regularly, as both drought and excessive water will cause stress that may affect blooming and bearing.

Fertilizing: Fertilize weekly at half strength.

Pest Problems: Flea beetles are notorious for making Swiss cheese out of eggplant foliage -- exclude them with floating row cover or try sticky traps to catch them. There are some fatal fungal diseases, especially in humid areas; rotate crops to avoid.

Days to Harvest: Depending on weather conditions, autumn-planted garlic should be ready to harvest about 9 to 10 months later, in July.

When to Plant: Plant in fall, about 6 weeks before hard frost. Set large, firm individual cloves point up in well-prepared soil, burying cloves an inch or two below ground level in mild zones, and at twice that depth in cold-winter areas.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Organic rich, well drained.

Watering: Keep area weeded and watered.

Fertilizing: Mulch as soon as ground freezes. Avoid use of chemical fertilizers: Excessive nitrogen promotes decay-prone bulbs. Snip off any flower shoots that appear.

Pest Problems: Diseases are commonly a symptom of poorly drained soil; where that is a problem, plant garlic in raised beds.

Days to Harvest: 68 to 80 for most; 70 to 90 for watermelon (Citrullus lanatus var. lanatus).

When to Plant: Seeds are best direct-sown once the weather is consistently warm, but in cold climates or for long-maturing varieties, start seeds indoors no more than one month before all danger of frost has passed. Roots must not be damaged during transplanting.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Fertile, well-drained soil. Amend average soil with compost before planting.

Watering: For best flavor, water melons only occasionally once fruit has set. It is preferable to water deeply and irregularly -- if plants wilt in the morning, water them, but afternoon wilting in the heat of summer does not necessarily indicate that water is required.

Fertilizing: Growing in a well-maintained, nutrient rich soil is preferable to applied fertilizers.

Pest Problems: Cucumber beetles will eat the foliage, hindering production. Handpick them and look for their yellow eggs on the undersides of leaves.

Days to Harvest: Can be harvested in as few as 55 days for green and immature, or up to 95 days for red and ripe.

When to Plant: For a head start, plant seeds indoors 6 weeks before the last frost. Peppers can be planted outdoors when frost is no longer a threat and the soil is reasonably warm.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Moist, rich, and well drained.

Watering: Water regularly, but too much water will result in much milder hot peppers.

Fertilizing: Fertilize weekly.

Pest Problems: Aphids can be knocked off the plants with a strong stream of water from the hose; flea beetles will eat small holes in the leaves but won't bother fruit.

Days to Harvest: Varies. Early-, mid-, and late-season varieties are available. Plants can be harvested 7 to 8 weeks after planting for tiny new potatoes or, several weeks later, the vines will wither, indicating that full-sized potatoes are ready for harvest.

When to Plant: Potatoes are generally planted in mid-spring.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Average soil amended with compost and deeply dug to loosen is ideal.

Watering: While plant is growing and tubers are forming, keep well watered. Once the foliage begins to yellow, however, cut back watering to avoid rotting tubers.

Fertilizing: If soil is not rich in organic matter, work a balanced organic granular fertilizer into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil.

Pest Problems: Potato beetles will devour foliage -- they can be excluded with row covers or handpicked. Also look for their yellow eggs on the underside of foliage. Many fungal diseases can affect potatoes, so practice crop rotation, avoiding sites that have recently grown tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, or other root crops.

Days to Harvest: Carrots, 54 to 75; parsnips, 110 to 120; beets, 45 to 58; turnips, 38 to 50; radishes, 21 to 30; rutabaga, 90 to 95.

When to Plant: Carrots, beets, parsnips, rutabaga, radishes, and turnips can all be planted in early spring. For those vegetables that mature quickly, you can make several sowings throughout the season for a constant supply, though most radishes won't do well in the heat of summer. Long-maturing varieties should be planted as early as possible, especially in cold climates.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Average soil is fine. Root vegetables require a deeply dug, loose, well-prepared soil. Any rocks or otherwise impermeable areas in the soil will result in misshapen roots. Root vegetables struggle in clay soils; amend these heavily with compost to improve soil texture.

Watering: Steady, regular watering is necessary for the roots to develop into nutritious, tasty vegetables.

Fertilizing: Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer if soil fertility is low. Do not use a high-nitrogen fertilizer.

Pest Problems: None serious. Rotate crops to minimize potential scab or rot diseases.

Days to Harvest: 20 to 30 for leafy types; 30 to 60 for head lettuces.

When to Plant: Most all types do best in cool weather and are cold-tolerant, so begin sowing in early spring. Make frequent, regular sowings of small amounts of seed to keep a consistent but manageable supply of greens. Try sowing a 1- to 2-foot row of seeds weekly until temperatures reach the 80s.

Light: One of the few vegetables that can tolerate some shade and even benefit from it, especially as the weather warms. Best production, particularly among red leaf varieties, is in morning sun with some shade in the heat of the day.

Soil: Average soil; good drainage is essential.

Watering: Water regularly; plants are sensitive to drying. Avoid wetting leaves.

Fertilizing: Not necessary unless soil is poor.

Pest Problems: Aphids can be washed off with a hose. Be on the lookout for slugs, which can be handpicked or trapped. Mold can be a problem, so site with good air circulation and avoid prolonged wet conditions.

Days to Harvest: 48 to 58.

When to Plant: Fleshy roots do not transplant well. Sow seed directly in garden when all danger of frost has passed. You can make a second sowing about halfway through the season for fall harvest.

Sun: Full sun.

Soil: Any moist but well-drained soil.

Watering: Big vines and fleshy fruits require ample water to develop properly.

Fertilizing: Use an organic vegetable fertilizer.

Pest Problems: Check underside of foliage for cucumber beetles and for squash bugs. Handpick and destroy. Squash vine borers live inside the vines; look for their entry holes, make an incision in the area, then remove larvae. Heap compost over the wound to encourage rooting.

Days to Harvest: 55 to 85.

When to Plant: Tomatoes should be started indoors 6 weeks before the last frost and only transplanted into the garden when the soil has warmed and frost no longer threatens.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Rich, well-drained top soil, ideally amended with compost.

Watering: Water frequently and consistently. Mulch keeps the soil evenly moist.

Fertilizing: Tomatoes have high fertility requirements, so apply an organic fertilizer at planting and again at midseason.

Pest Problems: Aphids can be knocked off with a strong stream of water from the hose; tomato hornworms are large, green caterpillars that can be handpicked and destroyed. Also subject to several diseases that can be minimized by rotating crop, using resistant varieties, and mulching around the plants.

Days to Harvest: 85 to 105.

When to Plant: Because they take such a long time to mature, winter squash should be started indoors in cold climates about 4 weeks before last frost. In areas with a long growing season, direct sowing in garden after danger of frost has passed is preferable.

Light: Full sun.

Soil: Well-drained soil amended with compost.

Watering: Ample water is necessary to grow the large, dense fruits. Avoid wetting leaves and fruits to minimize disease. 

Fertilizing: Heavy feeders need regular applications of an organic vegetable fertilizer.

Pest Problems: Cucumber beetles and squash bugs can devour plants, so look for them and their yellow eggs on the underside of leaves vigilantly; destroy them as you find them. Squash vine borers can also be a problem, as they tunnel into the stems. If you find these grublike pests in the stems, carefully remove them with a sharp knife, destroy, and heap soil over the wound to encourage rerooting and healing. Subject to many fungal diseases, including powdery mildew; site with good air circulation and avoid overhead irrigation.