Card Table How-To
The table is suited to a game room, but it would function just as well in a kitchen, as the crosshatching brings to mind a tablecloth, even where there isn't one.
- Damp cloth
- Wood filler
- Sand paper
- Medium-gray paint and a slightly lighter gray paint
- Steel wool
- Plastic container
- 2 tablespoons wax
- 1 teaspoon artist's oil paint in raw-umber
- 1/2 teaspoon artist's oil paint in paynes gray
- 1 tablespoon rottenstone
- 4 ounces mineral spirits
- Light-green paint
- Natural bristle brush
- 4 ounces each of moss-green alkyd paint, alkyd glaze, and mineral spirits
- Horsehair brush
Clean previously painted pieces with a damp cloth. Fill any nail holes with wood filler, and lightly sand the entire surface. Reclean with cloth.
Apply 2 coats of medium-gray paint; let dry. Apply a third coat of slightly lighter gray paint; let dry for about 1 hour, so that it's dry to the touch but not totally cured.
Rub with steel wool dipped in warm water to add texture and remove small bits of paint; concentrate on areas that would naturally become worn over time, such as the feet and corners.
In a plastic container, combine 2 tablespoons wax, 1 teaspoon artist's oil paint in raw-umber, 1/2 teaspoon artist's oil paint in paynes gray, 1 tablespoon rottenstone, and 4 ounces mineral spirits; mix well. Let mixture thicken for 30 minutes, uncovered. Apply to surface with brush; let dry about 15 minutes. Buff with rag, rubbing mixture off smooth parts but leaving some in the crevices.
Apply 2 base coats of light-green paint to tabletop; let dry. In a plastic container, combine 4 ounces each of moss-green alkyd paint, alkyd glaze, and mineral spirits. Apply evenly over surface with a natural bristle brush.
While glaze is still wet, create striations by running a dry horsehair brush in one direction (the bristles should sit flat). Let dry overnight.
Repeat process with second coat of glaze, running the brush in a perpendicular direction. Let dry.