Photography: Craig Cutler

Source: Halloween 2007, Special Issue Holiday 2007

Introduction

Martha's costume is finished with black satin CK gloves and a black wig that was trimmed and layered. The cape is pinned to her clothing with safety pins.

materials

  • 4 1/2 yards black metallic-silk fabric at least 45 inches wide

  • 1 yard fusible web

  • 1/2 yard black wool felt

  • 4 pieces of 20-gauge floral wire (18 inches)

  • Tailor's pencil

  • Fabric glue

  • 1 1/4 yards 3/16-inch black cord trim

  • 1 1/4 yards 3/8-inch black braid trim

  • 8 yards 1/2-inch double-fold black bias tape

  • Straight pins

  • Ivory foundation

  • White liquid makeup

  • White loose powder

  • Ebony eyeliner pencil

  • Small makeup brush

  • Black eye shadow

  • Tweezers

  • 4 false eyelash strips and eyelash glue

  • Dark-colored lipstick

  • Lipstick brush

steps

  1. Download and print template. With tailor's pencil, trace collar template twice on wrong side of black metallic-silk fabric, twice on fusible web and once on black wool felt; cut out all pieces.

  2. Stack three pieces: one piece silk, right-side down; one piece fusible web; felt. Press carefully, arranging layers as you work, to fuse layers.

  3. With tailor's pencil, mark a line across felt 1 inch below top edge and 1 inch in from either side, as pictured. Lay one piece of floral wire along the line, 1 inch below top edge and 1 inch in from right side. Repeat with a second piece of floral wire, laying it 1 inch below top edge and 1 inch in from left side; wires will overlap. Glue wires in place with fabric glue.

  4. Glue remaining pieces of floral wire flush along the bottom edge of the collar. Stack second piece of fusible web over felt and wire and stack second piece of silk, right-side up, on top. Press carefully, arranging layers as you work, to fuse layers.

  5. Glue braided trim along three sides, 1 inch in from top and sides. Glue cord trim along outside edge of top and sides.

  6. Download and print template. With tailor's pencil, trace cape template twice on wrong side of black metallic-silk fabric; cut out.

  7. Stack pieces, wrong sides facing. Bind pieces along one straight side: Sandwich raw edges between the bias tape. Pin to secure. Stitch 1/8 inch from tape's inner edge, making sure needle passes through all the layers. Hem remaining straight edges: Place cape right-side down. Fold one straight edge in 1/4 inch. Press in place. Fold the same edge in 1/4 inch. Press in place; stitch to secure. Repeat to finish the other straight edge.

  8. To finish the bottom of the cape, cut a 6-yard piece of bias tape. Center bias tape along cape's bottom, sandwiching fabric between the layers of the bias tape, pin in place, trim excess take and leave a 1/2-inch overhang on either side. To make a neat edge on both ends, open the folded bias tape like a book. Fold overhang over cape to make an even corner. Close the bias tape. Pin in place. Repeat on opposite corner. Stitch tape in place 1/8 inch from tape's inner edge.

  9. Lay collar trimmed-side down, as pictured. Arrange cape, right-side down, on top. Pin in place.

  10. To bind cape and collar, cut a 25-inch piece of bias tape. Center bias tape over the raw edges, sandwiching fabric between the bias tape, pin in place, and trim excess tape, leaving a 1/2-inch overhang on either side. To make a neat edge on either corner, open the folded bias tape like a book.

  11. Fold in overhang over cape to make an even corner. Close the bias tape. Pin in place. Repeat on opposite corner. Stitch tape in place 1/8 inch from tape's inner edge.

  12. Prepare skin: Apply ivory foundation to clean skin. Top with white liquid makeup. Brush face with white loose powder to set.

  13. Darken eyebrows with an ebony eyeliner pencil, lengthening and thickening eyebrows dramatically as you work.

    la103290_hall07_badmkupht1.jpg
  14. With a small brush, apply black eye shadow over lids, from lash to brow. Extend shadow horizontally, from inside corner of eyes to ends of eyebrows. With ebony eyeliner pencil, darken skin below eyes, as pictured.

    la103290_hall07_badmkupht2.jpg
  15. Use tweezers to apply false eyelash strips (available at drugstores) to upper and lower lids.

    la103290_hall07_badmkupht3.jpg
  16. Apply dark-colored lipstick on lips (we used a lip brush).

    la103290_hall07_badmkupht4.jpg

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