Turkey

These instructions follow the Turkey with Stuffing recipe.

1. Getting Started

You'll need the following equipment:
Large, heavy roasting pan (not nonstick)
Roasting rack (V-shaped or flat)
Toothpicks or small metal skewers
17-inch square of four-ply cheesecloth
Kitchen twine
Pastry brush
Instant-read thermometer
Fat separator

Remove giblets from the body and neck cavities, and reserve them; you can make Giblet Stock while the turkey is roasting.

Rinse the turkey under cool running water, and pat it dry with paper towels. Tuck the wing tips under the body to prevent them from burning.

2. Stuffing the Bird

Insert the stuffing just before the turkey goes into the oven; never do it ahead of time. And don't pack it too tightly, as the stuffing won't cook evenly and bacteria may grow; also, don't forget to stuff the neck cavity.

3. Securing the Neck Flap

Pull the flap of skin at the neck down, and use toothpicks or small metal skewers to fasten it.

4. Trussing

Pull the legs together loosely, and tie them with kitchen string; a bow will be easy to untie later. Any kind of sturdy white string or twine will do, as long as it's made of cotton, not polyester (which may melt in the oven's heat). Rub the turkey with butter, and season it with salt and pepper.

5. The Basting Process

Cover the turkey with cheesecloth that has been soaking in butter and wine; the cloth should cover the breast and part of the leg area. Make sure the cheesecloth never dries out or comes into contact with the inside walls of the oven; in either situation, it may ignite.

Every 30 minutes, use a pastry brush (better than a bulb baster) to baste the cheesecloth and exposed area of the turkey with the butter-and-wine mixture. (The turkey pictured here is out of the oven, but basting should be done in the oven and as quickly as possible, so the oven temperature doesn't drop.) Watch the pan juices; if they are in danger of overflowing, spoon them out and reserve them for the gravy.

After the third hour of cooking, take the turkey out of the oven. Carefully remove the cheesecloth, which will have turned quite brown, and discard it. Baste the turkey with pan juices, taking care not to tear the skin, and return it to the oven.

6. Temperature Taking

After the fourth hour of cooking, insert an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh (if you poke a bone, try again); when the temperature reaches 180 degrees, the bird is ready.

7. Carving

Use a thin-bladed, flexible carbon-steel knife to carve the meat into thin slices.

While the turkey is roasting, use the giblets (neck, liver, heart, and gizzard) to make a Giblet Stock. When the turkey is finished roasting, you're ready to make the gravy.

Gravy

1. Reserve Pan Juices

Transfer the turkey to a serving platter, and set it aside to rest while you make the gravy. Carefully pour the warm pan juices from the pan into a fat separator, and set aside. The fat will rise to the top as the liquid cools; the dark drippings, which are filled with flavor, will stay at the bottom near a low-slung spout, which will later pour the juice straight into a pan.

2. Deglaze Pan

Meanwhile, return the roasting pan to the stove top over medium-high heat. Carefully pour 1 1/2 cups Madeira wine into the roasting pan; bring to a boil, and use a wooden spoon to scrape off the caramelized and crispy brown bits that are stuck to the sides and bottom of the pan. The roasting pan should appear to be virtually clean when it is properly deglazed. These cooked-on bits carry the turkey's flavor right into the gravy.

3. Combine Flour and Giblet Stock

Strain the giblet stock, return it to the saucepan, and warm over low heat. Place 3 tablespoons of flour in a glass jar that has a tight-fitting lid. Fit a wide mouthed funnel in the top of the jar. Ladle 1 cup of the warm stock into the jar. Reserve the remaining stock in the saucepan, and keep warm over low heat.

4. Shake Jar to Make a Slurry

Close the jar tightly, and shake vigorously until all the flour is incorporated into the warm stock; this liaison is called a slurry. Combining the flour and stock before adding it to the gravy solves the problem of lumpy gravy.

Slowly pour the slurry into the roasting pan, stirring to fully incorporate. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the flour is fully cooked and all the traces of its raw, chalky flavor are gone, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir reserved warm giblet stock into gravy in roasting pan.

5. Add Separated Pan Drippings

Pour the pan drippings from the fat separator into the roasting pan, taking care to add only the dark drippings at the bottom. Discard the fat. Add rosemary, and stir well. Adjust seasoning. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally to thicken, until reduced to about 3 cups, 10 to 15 minutes.

6. Strain to Remove Solids

Place a fine sieve (or a strainer lined with lightly dampened cheesecloth) in a quart-size measuring cup or medium bowl. Pour gravy into the sieve or strainer. Use a wooden spoon to press down on remaining solids to extract all the juices; discard solids. Adjust seasoning. Gravy may be kept warm by placing the bowl in a saucepan containing 1 inch of barely simmering water. To serve, transfer to a heated gravy boat.