The anchor for our sumptuous spread is a glazed bone-in ham. It's basted with a spicy-sweet blend of honey, fresh horseradish, and allspice, which helps burnish and crisp the skin. Horseradish cream amplifies the flavors in the glaze.
Adding toasted whole-wheat breadcrumbs gives this dish a nice crunch that balances out the creaminess of the sauce. Rather than baking the shells with the crumbs on top (which can make them soggy), toast the breadcrumbs separately, and toss a handful over each serving right before you put it on the table.
Frilled edges and a curled shape make campanelle (Italian for "little bells") ideal for catching and holding this creamy ham-and-zucchini-studded sauce. Farfalle is another good shape for this combination.
This recipe is adapted from Martha Stewart's Christmas: Entertaining, Decorating, Giving, an instant classic when it first appeared in 1989. Unlike a typical ham, which is tender and juicy, a country ham is dry-cured before smoking, so it is intensely salty; it's meant to be sliced paper-thin and eaten with a biscuit. Soaking the ham in several changes of water, which removes some of the saltiness, is an essential part of the preparation. Country ham is delicious served warm, at room temperature, or cold. The honey mustard and ham can be made a week and a day ahead, respectively, and stored in the refrigerator. Any leftover ham can be very thinly sliced, sealed in freezer bags, and stored in the freezer up to three months.