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This recipe for fish fumet is courtesy of chef Eric Ripert and used to make his Le Bernardin Fish Soup. <P> From "Le Bernardin Cookbook: Four-Star Simplicity" by Maguy Le Coze and Eric Ripert. Copyright 1998 by Maguy Le Coze and Eric Ripert. Used by permission of Doubleday, a division of Random House.

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Sachets of aromatic herbs, such as the classic bouquet garni of thyme, parsley, and bay leaves, add flavor to simmering soups, stews, stocks, and braises. But fishing these cheesecloth bundles out of the pot can be difficult. The next time you use one of the herb packets, tie a length of butcher's twine to the sachet, and then tie the loose end to one of the pot's handles. (Be sure the twine stays clear of the burner.) When the time comes, the bouquet garni will be easy to retrieve and remove.

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With few fresh vegetables and fruits in season, wintertime calls for a new approach to cooking. Look into the pantry for inspiration; if your supplies are running low, our list of pantry basics will help you complete your winter larder.