The anchor for our sumptuous spread is a glazed bone-in ham. It's basted with a spicy-sweet blend of honey, fresh horseradish, and allspice, which helps burnish and crisp the skin. Horseradish cream amplifies the flavors in the glaze.
These tuna burgers are best eaten very rare, so buy your sushi-quality tuna from a reputable fishmonger. The fish should be glistening and jewel-toned, with no trace of cloudiness. Wasabi paste, or Japanese horseradish, is distinctive not only for its bright green color, but also for its head-rushing heat. Combined with a little mayonnaise and low-fat sour cream, it becomes a perfect condiment for the tuna burgers. Wasabi is available in powder form, too, and can be mixed into a paste with a little water.
The key to this dish is to leave the heavy lifting to a fish purveyor, who often will steam the shellfish and shuck the oysters for a minimal charge. Make the simple sauces earlier in the day, and your work is done. For the serving tray, buy crushed ice or place a few cups of ice in a plastic bag, wrap in a dish towel, and crush using a rolling pin or a meat tenderizer.